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Putting everything back together:
Required for the repair or total replacement is a good set of spanners (a variety in different lengths helps), a torque wrench, thread locker, the complete idler arm assy (or the particular part that needs to be replaced) and a quality ball joint remover.
Without a quality ball joint removal tool a good hammering technic is required. I broke the cheap ball joint remover from Supercheap and had to rely on my hammering technic.
One heavy hammer on the edge of the relay rod to absorb the impulse and a smaller hammer for hitting the thread did the job for me… works like the Newton’s Cradle and avoids that the relay rod moves when the thread of the ball joint getting hit.
The whole repair takes between 1 and 2 hours depending on how easy the ball joint can be removed.
A wheel alignment after replacing an idler arm assy with a heavily bent rod might be a good investment.
The idler arm assy is one of the weak points of the Terracan. It comprises the idler arm with the ball joint (connects to the relay rod) and the holder with a rod and 2 bushes.
The rod is prone to get bent or can corrode, the bushes and the ball joint can wear out. I got my first one replaced under warranty, the second replacement I did just now with approx. 160,000 km on the clock.
Sometimes jiggling of the idler arm causes a metallic noise indicating too much play. Or the rod is so heavily bent that it is recognizable without dismantling the idler arm assy, but in most cases a diagnose without dismantling is not possible.
Bushes are available on eBay (approx. AU$ 25), the idler arm can be ordered without the holder.
Considering the relative low costs - I don’t relay on Hyundai - of the complete assy I prefer a total replacement over changing single parts like bushes or idler arm.
Safety Note: when working under the car it needs to rest on suitable stands on firm ground. Never let it rest just on car jacks!